“In the Heart of Tenesdos
It was five hours past our departure from Istanbul to Bozcaada. When we arrived in Geyikli town of Çanakkale, we had the traces of a very tiring road trip. It was seven o'clock in the morning. We started to wait for the ferry to take us to the opposite side from Geyikli ferry pier. Bozcaada, which witnessed all the historical scenes in the icy waters of the Aegean Sea, was in front of us with all of its grandeur. We could not wait to get to Bozcaada, which was called "Tenesdos" in Homores' works.
Those who have ever visited Bozcaada know that waiting is not boring even if you arrive to Geyikli before the ferry time. Because you cannot understand how the time passes in the tea garden next to the pier. This can be compared with the most comfortable places in the world with its view. You may not find a seat even at seven or eight in the morning. We left our car on the ferry line and headed to this "comfortable" tea garden, just as other people did. After watching Bozcaada from afar for a while, it was time to cross it.
“Ova Region & Stone Houses
We were at Bozcaada Pier after a half hour ferry trip. The castle of Bozcaada, just opposite to the pier, seemed to have been built thousands of years ago, although it was built later on. It was almost impossible to ignore the attraction of the fishermen restaurants which were lined up on the left of the coast. However, our purpose of arrival to the island was neither a sightseeing tour nor a fishing restaurant on the coast. What excited and made us take this trip was to listen to the story of Gocay Vineyards in Ova and Habbele areas of Bozcaada from the famous iron trader Ekrem Cahit Gocay.
Ekrem Cahit Gocay, who has four siblings, gave his heart to the viticulture and he was interested in the viticulture architecture. That's why he built villas in the middle of his vineyards, which would be compared with the stone houses of Italy. He already said "You should see my houses before the vineyards" when we contacted him before coming to the island. We realized that he was right when we saw three houses in Ova. Bricks from ancient Greek houses were used in the walls of these houses, which have a delightful pleasure in every detail. The most interesting details of the vineyard houses is a huge well that is located in the courtyard. But this is not an ordinary well. It is a well which Ekrem Cahit Gocay saw in the movie "Godfather" and built the same. There is a brass bell right next to the well. The purpose of this bell is to announce the dining time to the one in the vineyard.
Since Ekrem Cahit Gocay is abroad, Orkunay Erdoğan who has taken care of these vineyards in Bozcaada for about ten years has been touring us. This young man who knows every point of the vineyards tells that Ekrem Cahit Gocay has invested in the vineyard in Bozcaada since the end of the 70s.
In fact, Ekrem Cahit Gocay's adventure of viticulture started a little randomly. Ekrem Cahit Gocay heard that one of the Greek vine growers was selling his vineyard in one of his routine visits to the island. He bought the vineyard right away. But whatever it is, the vendor has given up on selling it. Gokay, who came back to the island after a month passed from this event, met Dimitri Ovalı from Bozcaada's master vine growers. He bought his vineyards in Ovalı from Dimitri Ovalı and his vineyards in Habbele from İrfan Aral, one of the master local vine growers of the island.
“Gocay Vineyards in Ovalı and Habbele districts are established on an area of 1015 acres
Gocay Vineyards are located on an area of totally 1015 acres as 465 in Ova Mevkii and 550 in Habbele. Vasilaki, kuntra, cabarnet sauvignon, blanc, merlot and çavuş grapes are grown in the vineyards in both areas. We learn that the land in Ovalı is soft and fertile because it is located by the sea. This is especially ideal for çavuş grapes.
When we ask Erdogan where the production takes place, he says that the location of the production place is determined but that the construction is not started yet. Ekrem Cahit Gocay's right-hand man Erdogan tells us that the local vine growers on the island are in a difficult situation. "In fact, what is the case of viticulture in Turkey. Factories have a huge role in the death of viticulture. Unfortunately, the local vine growers working with labor power were destroyed by the wine producers. Many of the vine growers in the town had to sell their lands and settle in Çanakkale to be able to make their children study. Today, many wine producers cannot afford the grapes they bought last year. So viticulture in Turkey is not in good condition."
Gocay family, who do not produce because of the difficulties of the local vine growers, sell the grapes they grow in their vineyards only to their chosen producers. He adds that çavuş grapes grown in Gocay Vineyards in Ova are offered for sale in the island.
After learning this knowledge, we take Bozcaada's peaceful wind behind us and head towards the vineyards of Gocay in Habbele. On the way, we learn that Gocays built stone houses in Habbele. We think that it would not be wrong to call "Gocay Town" the regions where the vineyards are located. At this moment, Erdogan said "you know, Bozcaada is famous for its southwester winds. You probably guess how difficult it is to make stone houses" as if he had heard our inner voice. "The construction of the houses began five years ago. The houses were repeatedly demolished and rebuilt because Ekrem Cahit Gocay gave a lot of attention to details." Therefore we understand why the construction of the houses took so long.
kaynak : BOSS REPORT